Big Bend National Park is located on the very tip of Texas, butting right up to the Texas- Mexico border.I have been to Big Bend twice (My husband has been four times) and each time has had such a different feeling and experience. I will give some ideas of things to do based off of time (are you spending 1-2 days? 3-5? a full week?) and a few things still on my bucket list at this national park!

How To get Here/ Where to Stay:

Big Bend truly is in the middle of nowhere. It is one of the darkest places in the United States because of its complete isolation. If you are coming from anywhere in Texas you will most likely come in the northern entrance traveling south from Marathon (Get gas here, there is only one gas station inside the park and it is very expensive), unless you are planing on staying in the Terlingua area (there are gas stations here).

If you are planning your Big Bend trip far in advance, I would suggest to camp or stay at the lodge inside Big Bend if at all possible. I don’t always suggest this but here is why: Big Bend is massive! Especially if you have a limited amount of time, you will have spent so much time just getting to big bend, then driving in Big Bend it will really take away from your trip.

I have camped in Terlingua Ghost Town, Chisos Basin, and in Boot Canyon in the back country. Terlingua is a good option if there is no lodging inside the park, our campsite was well maintained, had clean showers and bathrooms, and had a community area with covered picnic tables and a grill. They also had small cabins with air conditioning for my glamping friends! Chisos Basin is very small and fills up quickly, so if you want a spot here plan far in advance! Both of these can be reserved online. Back country spots can only be reserved in person at a visitor center. These can also fill up very quickly at high traffic times of the year so get there early to get a spot. There are also many motel options in Terlingua.

Weather at Big Bend National Park:

Weather can play a big factor in your Big Bend trip. Big Bend is unique in the fact that its busiest times of year are the colder months (November- March). Big Bend is very much so a desert, so if you don’t want to be hiking in severe heat conditions I would suggest going during cooler months. But be warned, because it is the desert it gets very very cold at night. Our first trip we were sleeping in below freezing conditions the entire week. Do your research on the highs and lows and pack accordingly. Spring Break is one of the busiest times at Big Bend, but for good reason! The weather was very mild at this time and the Blue Bonnets were in full bloom. It was a desert wonderland!

Things To Do:

Again, Big Bend is massive! You won’t be able to see and do everything in a day. But here are some ways you can get the most bang for your buck.

1-2 Days in Big Bend:

The Window Trail:

Beginning from The Chisos Basin campground, the window hike is an easy to moderate out and back. If you have a limited amount of time, this hike will give you a taste of the back country without being too long or taxing. The scenery changes from mountains, to forrest, to a dry river wash, ending with sweeping views of the desert. It changes elevation by 900 feet and is about 3 hours round trip. I would suggest doing this hike first, especially in the summer, it can get crowded and has very little shade from the Texas sun.

Santa Elena Canyon:

One of the most impressive canyons in all of Texas! Santa Elena was created by the Rio Grande, and has cut massive walls along the Texas- Mexico border. This is a great spot for a picnic lunch, looking at the river, feeling the nice breeze coming off the water, and has picnic tables and bathrooms at the trail entrance. The trail is a very easy and flat stroll along the river, less than a mile out and back. Part of the trail is paved and part of it is not. This is a can’t miss spot at Big Bend!

Boquillas Canyon and Nature Trail:

Boquillas Canyon is another beautiful canyon at big bend. There are multiple easy trails that are less than a mile that can take you along the river as well as a nature trail that takes you to beautiful panoramic views of the desert mountains (if you look very close, you can see the town of Boquillas across the river). As you walk on this trail, you will most likely see trinkets made by the people of Boquillas with prices and a money jar. It is technically illegal to purchase these items, but it is not typically monitored (I bought a koozie while here shhhhh)

The Hot Springs:

Near Boquillas canyon, down a narrow mile long dirt road is a natural hot spring enjoyed by many at Big Bend! This is a fun oasis in the middle of the desert. As you walk to the springs there are palm trees, the ruins of a 20th century hotel that claimed the healing power of the springs, and even a small trail to some pictographs! This hot spring feels like a bit of a hippie hole. There were many college students, little babies swimming in their birthday suits, and various other interesting characters. Many people will jump into the Rio from the hot spring and swim to the other side (Mexico) although this is frowned upon (again shhh).

Lost Mine Trail:

This is the last item on my 1-2 day list, but one of my favorite trails in the entire park. Depending on your time or fitness level, this trail might not be for you. According to the legend, at certain times of the year when the sun shines in just the right way, you can see the gleam of gold and silver from and abandoned or “lost” mine (But typically, there is no mine haha). This is my favorite trail because it is the closest to seeing south rim views without taking the time to hike the south rim. Lost Mine is a 4.2 mile heavily trafficked out and back. The trail gains over 1,000 feet in elevation and took us close to 3 hours with many stops for picture taking. It begins with a steep paved portion through the thick chisos forest, then levels out a bit into a saddle with a lovely sweeping meadow full of flowers. After the last steep push to the top you are met with spectacular views similar to ones you could see at the south rim. The parking for this trail is a very very small roadside lot, so get here early or be prepared to walk a bit to get to the trail head. If you are looking for flora or fauna, this trail is a good bet to see some! We saw mule deer when we hiked it.

3-5 Days in Big Bend:

Many of these next items require more time commitment, which is why they fall into the 3-4 day list. If you can, these items are so so worth it to do!

Hike and Back Country Camp at The South Rim:

This is truly the pinnacle of Big Bend. People travel from all over the world to see the south rim. With that said, the south rim is quite the undertaking. To hike the entire thing is about 13 miles round trip and a change in elevation of about 2,000 feet. It toes the line of a day hike and a backpack trail. No matter which you plan to do, please keep these things in mind.

• There are no places for water. please, make sure you bring enough water!
• Know your limits. I was not comfortable doing this hike in one day, but splitting it between two days made it very doable for me
• check the weather and your route before heading out. There is no cellphone service.

Begin hiking from The Chisos Mountain Lodge. I suggest follow the signs towards Laguna Meadow/ South rim first (This route is slightly longer but less steep, the pinnacle trail route is incredibly steep so save this for your way back down).

It begins very flat until you encounter a series of seemingly endless switch backs that last until Laguna Meadow (which is a great spot for a lunch or rest break). After this the trail gets slightly less steep and begins passing many different back country campsites. These campsites come with compost toilets and bear boxes. The last big climb goes through a very steep dry river bed, until you finally reach the beautiful south rim!

On the way back down via the pinnacle trail you will begin to enter into Boot Canyon. This is where we set up camp for the night! Our spot was quiet, but not too isolated to feel creepy. It had a compost toilet not too far from us and came with a bear box, logs to sit on, and flat areas to pitch a tent. I love how shady this area was, it was a very relaxing spot.

The next day, we began our real descent back to Chisos Basin. You will pass by the turn off for Emory Peak on the way back down (The highest point in Big Bend). It is an additonal 2 miles and 1,000 feet of climbing but with beautiful views! If you are tackling The South Rim in a single day, I do not suggest this add on, but after a night of sleep you will be well equipped to add this if you desire.

You will then see the second set of switch backs (But this time you are heading down them and not up, woo hoo!). After the switch backs, you are home free! The south rim is truly one of a kind and almost a right of passage for Texas hikers, but come prepared, bring tons of water, and take your time!

Boquillas, Mexico:

This is another activity I highly suggest. My husband and I had so much fun doing this! If you plan on going to Boquillas, here are a few things to know:

• They do not take credit or debit cards. Bring cash, especially small american bills
• You will need your passport to go to Boquillas
• The gate is open at different hours through out the year, check when the gate will be open while you are there

When you arrive at the Boquillas gate, you will enter a building with customs officers and passport scanners. You will show your passport, they will go over the rules, when you need to be back etc. with you and then send you out the door. You will walk a short distance along a shady sandy trail until you reach The Rio Grande. At this point, you are greeted by people from the town of Boquillas to row you across the river in a small boat for a $5 fee (My husband and I chose to wade across the river!) You then have the option of ridding a burro to the town of Boquillas ($5 round trip) or walking the mile to the town (I highly suggest the burro ride, the burros are very tame, anyone no matter your skill level could ride one).

After arriving to Boquillas, there are many people in the streets selling crafts such as koozies, wire art, and pottery. Many of the people know very little english, so if you know any spanish this is a good time to practice! There is a single bar in town and two restaurants. We took tequilla shots at the local bar then headed over for some authentic Mexican food. We had some delicious enchilladas and authentic Mexican sugar coke and topo chico on a patio overlooking the Rio Grande

My favorite places to shop were in the two shops connected to the restaurant. They had a very large selection of clothing, dishes, pottery, and other hand made crafts. The prices for everything was very resonable ( my meal was $6, I bought a hand made plate for $10, our tequilla shot was $1 etc.) When you are ready to go, if you paid the $5, hop back on an empty burro and ride it back to the river and head back to big bend. You are allowed to bring back any items you bought from Boquillas EXCEPT: rocks or minerals, anything with seeds, or drugs (duh). You will be checked back in through the custom office using your passport again, which does not take very long. We LOVED Boquillas, I have never done anything like this at any other national park. If you have time, take the trip!

Bucket List Items at Big Bend National Park:

These are things that are still on my big bend bucket list:

• Take a rafting tour down the Rio Grande through big bend. Many are multiple day trips where you camp along the way
• Jeep tour! There are tons of off roading spots, so bring the 4 wheel drive vehichle and get lost down a dirt road!

Day Trips from Big Bend:

Be on the look out for another post describing some of these in more detail, but here are day trips to make when you are in the Big Bend Area:

• Marfa, Texas: Home to mysterious lights and quirky hipsters, this is a day trip you can’t miss!
• Fort Davis National Historic Site: want to see actual cannons be fired, want to see what a fort would be like during the civil war? Head to Fort Davis and step back in time!
• Davis Observatory: Big Bend area is one of the darkest places in The United states, making for great star gazing! Look up and wonder at Davis observatory, sign up for a star party if you have time!
• Terlingua TX: Terlingua is a very quirky spot right outside of Big Bend. If you want a step back into the wild west or visit the ruins of a ghost town, Terlingua is the place for you!
• Lajitas Resort: Home to one of the best golf courses in Texas, Laijtas is doing Big Bend in style! Located 45 minutes from big bend, this is a wonderful family friendly resort with beautiful food stops, swimming pools, options for different tours, golfing, and a private airport.

I hope you enjoy your trip to this beautiful part of the country!